5 min read

Working for the Milky Way

Finding a dark sky to photograph the Milky Way is hard work
Milky Way and burned trees
Seeing the Milky Way is an increasingly rare experience. Photo by David Lukas

I won't be posting a traditional newsletter today because I'm wiped out from a brutal all-night hike to photograph the Milky Way.

Instead, I thought it might be fun to share a bit about last night's adventure because it says a lot about how I explore the world and tackle new experiences.

This adventure started over a month ago, when I began looking more closely at one of our prominent local peaks and wondering if it might be a suitable frame for a photograph of the Milky Way.

rugged peaks
Wondering how I could find a close-up viewpoint of this distant peak in an impossibly rugged, trailless landscape. Photo by David Lukas

Taking a photograph of the Milky Way, however, means using a wide angle lens that creates a wide view but makes large and distant objects appear tiny. Therefore, taking a photograph of this peak and the Milky Way would require finding a remarkably close vantage point, which would be almost impossible in this trailless and extraordinarily rugged landscape.

rugged peak
Every approach to this peak is daunting. Photo by David Lukas

This inkling of an idea sparked me to spend weeks hiking to different viewpoints and poring over maps trying to visualize potential routes. I even asked a friend to fly around the mountain taking aerial photographs a couple times because I was worried about hiking to a remote viewpoint only to discover that the view of the mountain was blocked by another ridge or another peak I couldn't see from a distance.

The potential route I finally settled on would require climbing nearly 4000 feet in just over 1.5 miles, all of it through burned forest on an incredibly steep hillside covered in downed logs and rolling rocks.

burned tree against sky
A slope so steep that at times it felt almost vertical. Photo by Jack McLeod

For obvious reasons, I was nervous and unsure about this adventure, so I was thrilled to learn that one of my hiking buddies was willing to try it out with me. We decided to first hike the route in the daytime, not only to see if it was even feasible, but to also check out the view before hauling up all the gear we'd need for an extended photography session.

hiking on a ridge
Trying to follow a ridgeline through a laybrinth of fallen trees. Photo by Jack McLeod

That first hike was successful, but the sheer scale of the effort was deeply humbling. The ascent required climbing long stretches of loose talus, knife edge ridges, and rocky ledges so steep that coming back down that way was not an option.

climbing steep talus
A taste of what it was like to spend four hours scrambling up loose rock and sheer ledges. Photo by Jack McLeod

Fortunately, the viewpoint we finally reached was awesome, and exactly what we hoped to find,

close up peak
The rare full-on view we set out to find. Photo by David Lukas

However, the necessity of descending by an alternate route soon sobered us up because the only other option forced us to side-step down an equally steep hillside for three hours through a maze of dead trees, logs, and waist-high vegetation.

burned forest
It's hard to convey how difficult this route was, but it was as steep or even steeper than a staircase. Photo by David Lukas

So, after taking a couple days to recover, we decided that it would be worth returning to hike this route again in the dark to photograph the Milky Way!

hiking in the dark
If hiking this route in the daytime was hard, hiking it in the dark was even harder. Photo by Jack McLeod

On the day of our return hike, we tried talking ourselves out of the undertaking multiple times, especially because the temperature was 95 degrees when we met up that afternoon. On top of everything else stuffed in my pack, I was carrying six liters of water and even that didn't seem like enough for the 13-hour outing we were attempting.

hiking on steep slope
Hauling a very heavy load in the final light of the day. Photo by Jack McLeod

By now you might be asking what was the point of all this? I guess the best answer is that my passion is finding unique life experiences and insights that deepen my understanding of the natural world. These are the kinds of insights that I love to share because I want to bring joy, wonder, and fascination to people's lives, and seeing the Milky Way in its full splendor is something that many people rarely experience (including myself!).

Waiting for sunset
Layering up for a long wait until the Milky Way reaches its full splendor. Photo by Jack McLeod

There is something very special, almost sacred, about lying on your back, staring up at millions of twinkling stars and musing on the vast cosmos. I live in a Dark Sky community, where people work hard to protect the night sky, but even here the Milky Way doesn't shine through in all its glory. This truly is a rare and special experience.

Milky Way and mountains
The wonder of the night sky. Photo by David Lukas

So, what was our reward for undertaking such a long and difficult hike: a full 360-degree view of the deep, black night with no lights, no people, and the nearest big city over 100 miles away. For me, that's more than enough justification for making an effort like this.

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Sadly, the experience of staring meditatively at the night sky has become harder and harder to find. One of my key takeaways from this outing was the shock of discovering how many satellites there are. I counted 11 satellites in one photograph alone, and we also saw a Starlink satellite train, which has to be one of the most disturbing things I've ever seen. It makes me wonder why we're letting Elon Musk profit from controlling and destroying the night sky for everyone on Earth. It's worth watching this short animation of how many satellites now fill our skies, https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WWNClUJPCiA.

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